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Fear and Loathing and Lost Wages

Dawn Huston opened her first restaurant, Goblin and the Grocer, in Beverlyy Shores Indiana on May 30, 2019. Just 90 minutes east of Chicago, Beverly Shores is one of several communities on Lake Michigan that are surrounded by one of America's newest national parks -- Indiana Dunes National Park. One of the park's campgrounds adjoins Huston's property on one side.

Her first summer in business was good. She hired 50 employees, and on weekends, hired local bands to play on the patio. While she didn't quite turn a profit, she was paying her bills while learning and growing the business.

And then the stay at home order in Indiana, and everywhere else across the country, stopped everything in its tracks.

"I'm an optimist for the most part, but as days blur into weeks into months, it's hard to hold it together," Huston says. "I'm not sleeping, and I am terrified of the uncertainty."

Dawn Huston is not alone. For this story, we reached out to more than three dozen independent restaurant operators across the country to see how and what they are doing to cope.

Most didn't answer the phone. E-mails have gone unanswered. Those who have responded were deeply stressed about trying to figure out the new world without customers in the dining room.

This story is a reminder that you are not alone, that others are swimming in these turbulent waters with you. And maybe a few ideas from their experi- ences will help you.

The Pennant opened in downtown Topeka Kansas in March 2018. It had 90 employees. A good week saw $60,000 pass through the cash register. Now, that figure is closer to $10,000.

"It's actually a little busier than I expected," says General Manager Todd Renner. "It's reassuring to know that people are so willing to support local, even in these difficult times."

When The Pennant laid off the majority of its employees, Renner proactively sent their names and information to the Department of Labor to get them into the data base, saving the employees a bit of stress.

Currently, The Pennant is operating with five managers and eight hourly employees. They provide curbside pickup. For insurance purposes, managers drive their own vehicle to use any third party delivery service.

Renner says they've cut back the menu and created family meal packs. And each of their former employees receives two free meals a week.

"With all of the stress, I think people enjoy having a good meal ready for them, and a break from cooking at home" Renner says.

At press time, Arkansas was one of a handful of states without a stay at home order. However, The Vault, which has operated in Hot Springs since May 2018, has eliminated in house dining.

A small patio outside allowed for a few tables more than eight feet apart, but complaints to the health department eliminated that option just one week after it had been approved.

As a fine dining restaurant with an emphasis on steaks and fresh seafood, The Vault had never offered curbside pickup or carry-out. Although business is down 80 percent and they've laid off 23 employees, general manager Scott Mueller is optimistic about this new revenue stream.

"I'M AN OPTIMIST FOR THE MOST PART, BUT AS DAYS BLUR INTO WEEKS INTO MONTHS, IT'S HARD TO HOLD IT TOGETHER," INDIANA RESTAURATEUR DAWN HUSTON SAYS. "I'M NOT SLEEPING, AND I AM TERRIFIED OF THE UNCERTAINTY."

"We cut the menu in half and no longer offer fresh seafood, but people are still craving a good meal," he says. One menu item they've added is a plain and simple hamburger, which is now a top seller. "When things get back to normal, we are hoping to do more with curbside and delivery."

Progress, a fine dining concept which opened in Springfield, Missouri in October 2018, is also optimistic about a new revenue stream.

"We've never focused much on a to-go menu, but that will be a part of our new options when this is all over," says Cassidy Rollins. "We anticipate dedicating staff entirely to our carry-out."

Operating with just three owners and the sous chef, Progress has developed meal kits that feed two to four people. They also bottle chicken and pork stock, as well as condi- ments. A pared down menu and reduced hours is a part of the new reality.

In Des Moines, Iowa, Joe Tripp was nearing the third anniversary of his fine dining, farm-to-table concept, Har- binger, when the stay at home order came to his city. With seating for 47 guests, and a staff of 15, Tripp felt fortunate that he didn't have the massive overhead that a much larger restaurant would have.

"We didn't even attempt to go orders because much of the fine dining experience that people pay for does not translate into a Styrofoam to go container," Tripp says.

So, Harbinger shut its doors immediately, laying off all 15 employees. However, Tripp had been working on a fast casual concept featuring Korean fried chicken that he had hoped to open this summer. He had already developed the recipes and was looking for a space for what he would name "Basic Bird."

He spent two weeks sourcing the supplies he needed. The most difficult item turned out to be the to-go containers. Restaurant supply stores throughout the Midwest have experienced a shortage. He's also having a hard time getting the chicken he needs. Operating three nights a week from the Harbinger kitchen, Tripp and a staff of three fry up about 90 pounds of chicken from a single one basket fryer and provide curbside delivery service.

"Obviously this kitchen is not designed for this concept, but we're trying to stay optimistic," he says. "When this is over, I fully intend to open Harbinger again, and hopefully will have developed a solid following for Basic Bird."

Tripp applied for grants from the state of Iowa and was declined in the first round. He has also applied for funds from the Payroll Protection Loan, but has not heard a response.

"If I could speak directly to my legislators in Washington, I would tell them they've made this application process too challenging for small mom-and-pop businesses," he says. "It's way too much paperwork for the small, independent operator who may not have an accountant familiar with all of the terminology and needs."

Like everyone else, Tripp is trying hard to remain optimistic. "My biggest concern is that when the pandemic is over we will move into a full-blown recession or worse," he says.

Chef Matt Harakal of 21 North Eatery in Martinsville, Indiana has found support and assistance from his local Chamber of Commerce. They've pointed him to some grant opportunities he otherwise would not have known about. His local bank has also helped navigate paperwork for government grants.

"As a restaurant owner, you have to be proactive and optimistic, but that's hard to do when you don't know what tomorrow will bring," Harakal says.

During the dine-in closure period, 21 North Eatery did about 30 percent of its pre-Covid business, and he's been able to bring back four of the 24 employees it laid off. They've cut the menu down to just six items.

"The community has been very supportive of local restaurants, and that means so much," Harakal said. "We'll get through this because of support from those who have always supported us and made operating a restaurant such a rewarding experience."